bonjour, je vais faire part de certaine découverte sur le différents clapets ant retours à modifier comme soupape de choc pour des béliers hydrauliques fait maison voici une video tres explicite
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73GLgvXR ... re=channel
et voici quelques clapets à réaliser
http://www.brossette.fr/fichetechnique.php?code=716383
le clapet d' une crépine tubulaire ressemble à peu pres à ça
http://www.energies.alba-annuaire.fr/be ... html?cat=2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sJOr6UPeMs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbVdNcYDSo8
on peut aussi modifier un clapet à battant comme ici
http://www.clemson.edu/irrig/Equip/ram.htm en anglais
j' espere que cela interessera quelqu' un, j' ai ouvert ce nouveau sujet parce que personne ne semblait intéressé sur les autres du même sujet, ce serait gentil si quelqu' un pourrait éssayer d' explique en français la modif d' un clapet à battant du site clemson
la crépine tubulaire que j' avais en main il y a quelques années était doté d' un clapet anti retour avec une vis et avait la forme d' une demi boule, j' ignore s' il en est encore ainsi actuellement
Clapets d'impulsions de béliers hydrauliques
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Clapets d'impulsions de béliers hydrauliques
Dernière édition par oli 80 le 17/06/10, 22:29, édité 1 fois.
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- coucou789456
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re bonjour
même si mon intervention n'est pas nécessaire et n'apporte rien de concret, l'image GIF extraite montrant l'utilisation du fameux clapet anti-retour.
jeff
même si mon intervention n'est pas nécessaire et n'apporte rien de concret, l'image GIF extraite montrant l'utilisation du fameux clapet anti-retour.
jeff
Dernière édition par coucou789456 le 01/06/10, 06:00, édité 1 fois.
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clapet anti retour en clapet d' impulsion
bonjour, je voulais parler de la modification de clapets anti retours standards en clapet d' impulsion pour des béliers de fabrication artisanale, comme beaucoup ici ont utilisé un clapet crépine en laiton pour le clapet principal de leurs bélier
il suffi de demander à christophe par exemple, c' est pour ça que j' ai mis tout ces liens
pour la crépine tubulaire je précise que son clapet ne dispose pas de ressort, donc idéale aussi pour en faire un clapet de bélier
il suffi de demander à christophe par exemple, c' est pour ça que j' ai mis tout ces liens
pour la crépine tubulaire je précise que son clapet ne dispose pas de ressort, donc idéale aussi pour en faire un clapet de bélier
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éxtrait du site clemson
bonsoir voici un texte sur le clapet d' impulsion à battant du site clemson university
A 4" threaded plug and 4" female adapter were originally used instead of the 4" glue-on cap shown in the image, This combination leaked regardless of how tightly it was tightened or how much teflon tape sealant was used, resulting in water-logging of the pressure chamber. This in turn dramatically increased the shock waves and could possibly have shortened pump life. If the bicycle tube should need to be serviced when using the glue cap design, the pipe may be cut in half then re-glued together using a coupling.
Valve Operation Descriptions - Valve #1 is the drive water inlet for the pump. Union #8 is the exit point for the pressurized water. Swing check valve #4 is also known as the "impetus" or "waste" valve - the extra drive water exits here during operation. The "impetus" valve is the valve that is operated manually at the beginning (by pushing it in with a finger) to charge the ram and start normal operation.
Valves #1 and #7 could be ball valves instead of gate valves. Ball valves may withstand the shock waves of the pump better over a long period of time.
The swing check valve (part 4 - also known as the impetus valve) can be adjusted to vary the length of stroke (please note that maximum flow and pressure head will be achieved with this valve positioned vertically, with the opening facing up). Turn the valve on the threads until the pin in the clapper hinge of the valve is in line with the pipe (instead of perpendicular to it). Then move the tee the valve is attached to slightly away from vertical, making sure the clapper hinge in the swing check is toward the top of the valve as you do this. The larger the angle from vertical, the shorter the stroke period (and the less potential pressure, since the water will not reach as high a velocity before shutting the valve). For maximum flow and pressure valve #4 should be in a vertical position (the outlet pointed straight up).
Swing check valve #4 should always be brass (or some metal) and not plastic. Experiences with plastic or PVC swing check valves have shown that the "flapper" or "clapper" in these valves is very light weight and therefore closes much earlier than the "flapper" of a comparable brass swing check. This in turn would mean lower flow rates and lower pressure heads.
The pipe cock (part 10) is in place to protect the gauge after the pump is started. It is turned off after the pump has been started and is operating normally. Turn it on if needed to check the outlet pressure, then turn it back off to protect the gauge
A 4" threaded plug and 4" female adapter were originally used instead of the 4" glue-on cap shown in the image, This combination leaked regardless of how tightly it was tightened or how much teflon tape sealant was used, resulting in water-logging of the pressure chamber. This in turn dramatically increased the shock waves and could possibly have shortened pump life. If the bicycle tube should need to be serviced when using the glue cap design, the pipe may be cut in half then re-glued together using a coupling.
Valve Operation Descriptions - Valve #1 is the drive water inlet for the pump. Union #8 is the exit point for the pressurized water. Swing check valve #4 is also known as the "impetus" or "waste" valve - the extra drive water exits here during operation. The "impetus" valve is the valve that is operated manually at the beginning (by pushing it in with a finger) to charge the ram and start normal operation.
Valves #1 and #7 could be ball valves instead of gate valves. Ball valves may withstand the shock waves of the pump better over a long period of time.
The swing check valve (part 4 - also known as the impetus valve) can be adjusted to vary the length of stroke (please note that maximum flow and pressure head will be achieved with this valve positioned vertically, with the opening facing up). Turn the valve on the threads until the pin in the clapper hinge of the valve is in line with the pipe (instead of perpendicular to it). Then move the tee the valve is attached to slightly away from vertical, making sure the clapper hinge in the swing check is toward the top of the valve as you do this. The larger the angle from vertical, the shorter the stroke period (and the less potential pressure, since the water will not reach as high a velocity before shutting the valve). For maximum flow and pressure valve #4 should be in a vertical position (the outlet pointed straight up).
Swing check valve #4 should always be brass (or some metal) and not plastic. Experiences with plastic or PVC swing check valves have shown that the "flapper" or "clapper" in these valves is very light weight and therefore closes much earlier than the "flapper" of a comparable brass swing check. This in turn would mean lower flow rates and lower pressure heads.
The pipe cock (part 10) is in place to protect the gauge after the pump is started. It is turned off after the pump has been started and is operating normally. Turn it on if needed to check the outlet pressure, then turn it back off to protect the gauge
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Pour le clapet d'impulsion, on peut aussi utiliser un clapet anti-retour du commerce (de type à piston guidé), monté en sens inverse du fluide, et taré à la force de l'eau par un ressort de traction qui le retient en position ouverte. Voir exemple dans Figure C3 du site http://regis.petit2.perso.sfr.fr/bel_pra.htm
Mais j'avoue que c'est plutôt une solution industrielle et relativement chère, pas vraiment artisanale.
Mais j'avoue que c'est plutôt une solution industrielle et relativement chère, pas vraiment artisanale.
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